An all-purpose saddle is the most sensible saddle to own first: a single frame with a moderate flap angle that handles flatwork, hacking, and modest jumping without committing you to a discipline. But saddles break the normal buying rules — fit to your horse’s back is everything. A perfect saddle on the wrong back causes pain, behaviour problems, and even long-term damage. This guide ranks the best AP saddles and, just as importantly, explains how to buy one safely.
Read this first: No saddle is “the best” in isolation — it must fit both your horse and you. Before buying any saddle, have a qualified saddle fitter check your horse’s back. The models below are excellent and widely fittable (many have adjustable gullets), but adjustability is not a substitute for a proper fitting.
The saddles, ranked
- Adjustable EASY-CHANGE gullet adapts to changing horse shape
- Synthetic build is light, durable, and wipe-clean
- Excellent value — a fraction of comparable leather
- CAIR air panels distribute pressure well
- Synthetic look and feel won't please leather purists
- Still needs a professional fit check
- Beautiful leather with the convenience of an adjustable gullet
- CAIR air panel system for even pressure distribution
- Holds value and lasts decades with care
- Comfortable, secure seat for flatwork and jumping
- Significantly more expensive than synthetic
- Leather needs regular cleaning and conditioning
- Designed with wider fittings for cobs and native breeds
- Changeable gullet plates for fine-tuning
- Light, easy-care synthetic at a fair price
- Comfortable flexible panels
- Geared to wider horses — less ideal for narrow types
- Synthetic feel
Side by side
| Saddle | Price | Material | Best for | C&F Score |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bates All-Purpose | $1,900 | Leather | Long-term | 9.1 |
| Wintec 2000 | $750 | Synthetic | Value | 9.0 |
| Thorowgood T8 | $850 | Synthetic | Wide horses | 8.7 |
| Collegiate Convertible | $1,100 | Leather | All-round | 8.5 |
| Wintec 500 | $700 | Synthetic | Value | 8.6 |
Synthetic vs leather
Synthetic saddles are lighter, cheaper, weatherproof, and wipe clean in seconds — ideal for beginners, wet climates, and tight budgets. Leather saddles look and feel superior, last for decades, and hold resale value, but cost more and demand regular care. For a first saddle, synthetic is the pragmatic choice; many riders move to leather once they’ve settled on a discipline. See how to choose a saddle for the full breakdown.
What to skip
Buying a saddle without a fit check. This is the cardinal error. A saddle that pinches or bridges causes pain, bad behaviour, and lasting damage. Always involve a qualified saddle fitter — it’s the single most important step.
Second-hand bargains you can’t fit. A cheap used saddle is no bargain if it doesn’t fit your horse. If you buy used, do it on a trial/return basis and have it checked.
Specialising too early. A jumping or dressage saddle locks you into one discipline. Unless you’re committed, an all-purpose saddle keeps your options open while you find your direction.
How to choose
For most riders, the Wintec 2000 offers the best blend of adjustability, low maintenance, and value. If you want leather and plan to keep the saddle for years, the Bates All-Purpose is the pick. Broad-backed cobs and natives are best served by the Thorowgood T8. Whatever you choose, fit comes first — book a saddle fitter before you buy.
Next, sort the rest of your tack: a well-fitted bridle, the right girth, and a supportive saddle pad. New to riding? Start with the beginner rider gear checklist.